Building a youth league baseball field is generally a straight forward process, this diagram will show the minimum and maximum distances required for a standard 90 foot youth League baseball field.. It shows the distance to the pitcher mound from home plate, 1st 2nd and 3rd base distance, backstop distance and outfield minimum distance.

90-foot-little-league-field-dimensions

Sizing Charts
Use the charts below as a general guideline for determining BAT LENGTH.
Use the charts below as a general guideline for determining BAT WEIGHT.
Little League (8-10 yrs)
Player Height
Bat Weight
48-50″
16-17 oz.
51-54″
17-18 oz.
55-59″
18-19 oz.
60+”
19-20 oz.
 
Youth League (11-12 yrs)
Player Weight
Bat Weight
70-80 lbs.
18-19 oz.
81-100 lbs.
19-20 oz.
101-120 lbs.
20-21 oz.
121-140 lbs.
21-22 oz.
141+ lbs.
22-23 oz.
 
High School & College
Player Height
Bat Weight
66-68″
27-28 oz.
69-72″
28-29 oz.
73-76″
29-30 oz.
77+”
30-31 oz.
Types of Baseball Bats
Tee-Ball Bats
Tee-Ball bats are for ages approx 5 thru 7. They are generally used in tee-ball and coach pitch leagues. The bat barrel is 2 1/4 inch in diameter. Bat lengths range from 25 inch to 27 inch. Bat weight is measured in weight drop, which varies between brands and models. Heavier bats are around minus 7 weight drop, lighter bats are around minus 13.
Little League Bats
Little League bats are for ages approx 7 thru 12. They are used in leagues including Little League, Babe Ruth, Dixie Youth, PONY, and AABC. The bat barrel is 2 1/4 inch in diameter. Bat lengths range from 28 inch to 32 inch. Bat weight is measured in weight drop, which varies between brands and models. Heavier bats are around minus 7 weight drop, lighter bats are around minus 13.
Senior League Bats
Senior League bats are for ages approx 10 thru 13. They are used in certain travel and tournament leagues. The bat barrel is available in 2 5/8 inch (high school regulation), and 2 3/4 inch (Big Barrel). Bat lengths range from 28 inch to 32 inch. Bat weight is measured in weight drop, which varies between brands and models. Heavier bats are around minus 5 weight drop, lighter bats are around minus 11.
High School / College Bats
High School / College bats are for ages approx 13 and up. They are used in most High School and College leagues. The bat barrel is 2 5/8 inch in diameter. Bat lengths range from 30 inch to 34 inch. Bat weight is measured in weight drop, which must be minus 3. Most leagues require an approved BESR stamp on the bat (Bat Exit Speed Rating).
Composite Baseball Bats
A word about Composite Baseball Bats
Composite Baseball Bats, such as the Easton Stealth Composite and Louisville Catalyst, are fairly new to the Baseball scene. They have been used in softball for many years. Early on, there seems to be some mixed reviews on the Composite baseball bats. I believe this is because the baseball world is not fully educated on these bats, and don’t realize how to make a composite bat work for them. To start off with, composite bats have a much longer break-in period than aluminum bats, and hitting jugz balls will not do it. If you plan on breaking in these bats in the cages, you need to use real baseballs. Another common complaint in some reviews is the poor durability of these bats. But, what players and coaches must realize is that they are not just swinging a hunk of metal anymore. Composite bats should not be used in cold weather; temperatures less than 70 degrees they can easily break, as many are finding out. Another common complaint is the cost. Yes, they are expensive, but if broken in correctly and used correctly, you will get so much more out of your bat than the aluminum or hybrids of past years. There are several Pros and Cons (and misconceptions) about composite bats, but players and coaches need to have the correct information before making a judgment. After I explained the proper break-in and use of composites to a few of our high school players, they were amazed at the difference. At first, the ball will sound like it came off a wooden bat, which was another complaint in many reviews, but with proper effort and care you can break them in to the point where it sounds more like a rifle than wood. Players, coaches and parents need to know what they are buying. Without proper knowledge, they are just buying a $300 or $400 Bat, but with the correct knowledge they could be buying $300 Lightning Rod. Composite bats give a whole lot more forgiveness for the imperfect swing, and have the potential to make the average hitter a clean-up hitter.
Baseball Bat Questions & Answers
How do I break in a composite bat?
It usually depends on the bat, but commonly you just need a lot of good BP with the bat. You have to have between 100 to 200 hits to break it in. Some bats take longer than others. You need to be hitting goods balls, leather cover solid baseballs. Hitting off a tee will not break it in very effectively. You need to be hitting live balls thrown 40mph or better. A machine works good if it is set up to throw real baseballs. Each time you make good contact you need to turn the barrel about 1/8 turn so you break in the bat evenly.
What do you recommend for proper care and maintenance of composite bats?
Let me start out by stating keep your receipt. If there is a problem with the bat while it is under warranty, you will need the receipt when you send it to the manufacturer. Here are a few tips for proper care and maintenance:
1. Never leave any bat, especially a composite bat, in cold weather for an extended period of time. Cold weather is very bad on composites. So make sure when you get home you take it with you into your warm house. Never hit a composite bat in weather below 65 degrees or it will have a greater chance of breaking.
2. Try not to hit off the handle – this is where most breaks occur. Composite bats have flex to them in the handles, so a good impact blow off the handle can cause them to break.
3. Only hit leather cover solid baseballs.
4. Avoid having it become a team bat.
Hi, we just got my son an Easton Stealth bat for his birthday. He was told by a parent that you should use car wax to keep the bat shinny. What do you recommend?
I recommend just cleaning it with a wet rag. Using any foreign substance, like car wax, could be considered altering or tampering with the bat.
You say not to hit a composite bat in cold weather. What about the heat (90+ degrees)?
Basically, the warmer it is, the bigger your sweet spot becomes. Keep in mind that in some areas, such as Coastal areas or certain areas in the Midwest, with the heat there is usually higher humidity. So, although the bat is warm, the air is heavy. This doesn’t effect the bat, but can effect the ball and its flight – you may notice a difference, especially on high flies.
Are half & half composite handle bats also bad in cold weather?
Half and Half typically do have some problems in cold weather at the handle, however it is not in performance but durability. To be safe, try to avoid using them in cold weather (below 65 degrees).
I was told at a store today that composite bats were made for use in cold weather???
It depends what they mean by that. Composite bats do Perform well in cold weather. Although the performance is very good, the durability is extremely poor. Most manufactures recommend that you do not use composite bats in temperatures less then 70 degrees.
Could I ever get a bat that after trying to break it in for months, just never performs?
Sure you can. They make bats by the thousands, and you can receive a bat that may have a flaw in it that is not visible to you. If you get a bat that you have worked with and does not meet your expectations, call the manufacturer and ask if they will replace it. Most manufacturers stand behind the bats they make.
Can these instructions on breaking in a composite Baseball bat be used for Softball bats also?
Yes, same way only using softballs.
Is a Composite bat better than Aluminum?
It is basically a matter of opinion and manufacturer. It is my opinion that in most cases, a full composite bat is better than aluminum and is the best technology available today. There are pros and cons to each bat however. Which is better for you depends on what you are looking for in a bat, such as durability, sweetspot, break-in time, warranty, flex, and other factors.
Will a Composite bat hit the ball farther than an Aluminum bat?
Given that contact is made on the barrel of the bat, not on the handle, my research and testing suggest that the composite bat does have more pop. However, this is only after the composite bat has been broken-in. Straight out of the wrapper, the aluminum bat will be equally as effective, but after break-in period, the composite will surpass it.
What is Half & Half technology?
Half & Half technology, in most instances, is where the handle is composite and the barrel is aluminum, alloy, or a hybrid material. These bats incorporate “two piece” technology. With the handle being composite, it allows for flex or whipping action. With the barrel being aluminum, alloy, or hybrid material, it gives the bat more durability. The main advantages of this technology are the durability of the barrel and the whipping action. These are typically very good bats and cost less than full composites, however, they will usually not have the pop of a full composite.
What is Hybrid technology?
Basically, it is the process of combining two different materials to create the bat, such as combining SC900 aluminum with carbon, or combining different alloys of steels and aluminums.
How do composite bats compare to double wall bats such as the DeMarini F3? Is there a noticeable difference in “pop” or is it just preference? I realize the double wall bats have less weight drop which takes away bat speed but with all things being equal such as bat speed is one better than the other?
Double walls were designed to get a better trampoline effect at contact. Is there a noticeable difference? I think it would depend on the individuals swing. The double walls have a smaller sweet spot so the swing needs to be more precise, where the single wall composites allow for some imperfection in the swing. I personally think age and power of the player is critical in bat choice. I believe younger players should be swinging lighter balanced bats, and as their swing gets consistent then they can start working with End-Loads, less weight drop, and different wall designs.
If bats are regulated by BPF what advantage do the alloys make? I understand stronger alloy allows for thinner walls therefore a lighter bat, but why not just find a light bat at a good length and buy the cheapest? Or do stronger alloys make a difference as far as performance?
Stronger alloy bats and composite bats usually have better performance for the imperfect swing. Composites allow for mistakes to happen during the swing and still give you a little more pop. A lot of it has to with how the composite material or alloy’s are formed to the bat shell; some bat manufacturers braid, weave, string, or float the alloys to make the shell of the barrels. All have there advantages and disadvantages. There are some composites that are great in some areas such as POP, but poor in other areas such as durability. Some are the opposite. Also remember that BFP is a rating, some bats clearly make it, some just make it, some perform at it, and others do not get approved.
Some players say you should not use a weighted sleeve on a composite bat, but that the smaller donut is OK. What have you heard about this?
I have heard of this, but do not believe or have any evidence that this is correct. I usually recommend something like the Jeter Variable Bat Weight Sleeve that is made of Nylon, but I do not believe that the other weight sleeves will damage the bat.
A kid on my team has a Stealth bat marked with “Demo” on the handle. Are these demo bats any different than store bought versions?
NO. (well they are not supposed to be).
I was wondering how does a bat actually lose its “pop” and how would a person actually know the pop is gone?
Bats can lose their pop several different ways – cracks, end cap separation, sometimes you can just get a bad bat out of the batch. Every bat will start to break down in time and eventually will crack or start loosing pop as the material breaks down. How long this takes depends on many factors, including proper care and use of the bat.
You can usually tell when a bat starts to lose it’s pop by the sound. It won’t have the same solid sound and will sound a little flat. Sometimes you can tell by the feel of the bat at impact, where it does not feel the same as it previously had, and you may notice the velocity of the ball off the bat is not be like it had been. If the bat is still under warranty, you can contact the manufacturer.
My friend told me that there are certain scratch lines in a composite bat that are deep and it means that the bat is going to crack. I have some of these scratches. Is this true?
Those lines actually mean very little. It is just how the manufacturer mends the material to form the bat. Note that eventually, when the bat gets to the point of breaking, it may use one of those lines to break at.
My new composite bat has a certain sound that I’ve never heard before. Does this mean that it is broken or is going to crack?
If the sound you’re talking about is like a wooden bat sound, welcome to the world of composite bats. It’s a hard sound to get used to, but the more you break-in your bat, the more Crisp the sound will become. If you’re referring to another sound such as a rattle or thud, you may have an issue with the bat and should contact the manufacturer.
If my bat breaks and I have my receipt what do I do?
Don’t take it back to the place you bought it from. You will need to find the manufacturers contact number, which is usually on the warranty information that comes with the bat, or you can find it online. Call them up and arrange an exchange – they will tell you what to do.
If my bat breaks and I don’t have my original receipt what do I do?
If you bought your bat with a credit card there is still hope. The company you bought your bat from should be able to look up the transaction and get you a copy of the receipt. If you paid cash or are unable to get a copy of the receipt, you are probably out of luck and will have to buy a new bat.
If my bat breaks and I send it in for a replacement can I get a different size?
It usually depends on the manufacturer, but typically the size and weight can be changed from the original. Keep in mind that sometimes you may not be able to get the same model. You may have an older model that is no longer available. In that case, they will usually send you a newer model of equal or higher value for the exchange.
Louisville Slugger Baseball Bat Technologies
Easton Baseball Bat Technologies
General Terms
Weight Drop
Weight Drop is a term used to describe the weight of the bat. Weight Drop is shown as a minus number, such as minus 3 or minus 12. It refers to the difference between the length of the bat (in inches) and the weight of the bat (in ounces). Weight drop varies between brands and models. For example, a Little League DeMarini F3 bat is minus 10. It is available in lengths from 28 inch to 32 inch. The weight of the 28 inch would be 18 ounces, the weight of the 32 inch would be 22 ounces. Weight drop for Little League bats range from approx minus 7 to minus 13. The higher the weight drop, the lighter the bat. High school and college bats must be minus 3.
Barrel Size
This is the diameter of the largest part of the bat. Little League bats are 2 1/4 inch in diameter. Senior League bats are available in 2 5/8 inch and 2 3/4 inch (big barrel). High school and college bats are 2 5/8 inch.
The longer and larger the barrel, generally, the larger the sweet spot for hitting the ball.
Some players prefer baseball bats with smaller barrels and lighter weight, which allows for more bat speed.
Bat Taper (diameter of the bat’s handle)
Standard baseball bats are tapered 31/32 of an inch but can be slightly larger or smaller depending on whether you want a lighter or heavier bat.
Some players like a narrower taper for the lighter weight and to rotate their wrists faster when hitting. Other players prefer the feel of a bigger bat taper, which can also reduce the sting when a ball isn’t struck on the sweet spot.
Grip (covering on the handle of aluminum bats)
Baseball bats with leather or synthetic leather grips give a tackier feel for a surer grip.
Rubber grips absorb more of the shock.
Some bats come with a cushioned grip to decrease the shock even more.
Choosing Youth Baseball Bats
First, three words about bats: “Lighter Is Better”
Barry Bonds, who weighs 195 pounds, uses a 28 ounce bat! A light bat is easier to control, and, contrary to old-school thinking, you can hit a ball harder and farther with a light bat than with a heavy bat because you can swing a light bat much faster. As acceptance of this fact has grown in recent years, the overwhelming trend in both baseball and softball has been to lighter bats. In case you need convincing, consider that NCAA and high school reviewing sports bodies have rules prohibiting baseball bats from being more than 3 ounces lighter in weight than the length of the bat in inches. This was done for safety reasons-it was thought that big, strong players swinging ultra light bats hit the ball so hard that infielders were at risk.
In Little League, however, light bats are not considered to be unsafe for defenders, because the players aren’t nearly as big and strong as their older counterparts. Even using an ultra light 19 ounce Little League bat, a typical 90 pound kid won’t be able to make up for the disparity in size and strength between himself and a college player. In fact, to have any chance of swinging with proper technique, most Little League players need an ultra light bat.
It’s a bad idea to get a baseball bat that’s too heavy for your Little Leaguer with the thought that he or she will “grow into it”. Instead, your kid will learn bad habits trying to swing a bat that is too heavy. When in doubt about two bats, go with the lighter bat.
THE RULES
Little League baseball bats must be 32″ or less and have barrels no more than 2¼ in diameter. The bat must also be made of an approved material, but need not actually say “approved by Little League” on the bat. In practice, every major manufacturer uses approved materials.
LENGTH AND WEIGHT
Manufacturers typically print the bat’s length in inches on the barrel or the handle. They also print the weight, either in ounces, or as “something”. The “-” stands for weight in ounces less than length in inches. In other words, a 30 inch bat designated as “-10″ weighs 20 ounces. Weight: In general, buy a bat that is “-10″ or lighter.
The table below probably covers 80% of the players in a given division, but, as they say, “your mileage may vary”. Some kids are bigger than others; some are strong for their size; some have already developed good technique. The best any article can give you is a rule of thumb.
Division (age)…………..Bat Length, Weight
Farm (7-8)………………26″ or 27″,10 or lighter
Jr. Minors (8-9)…………27″ to 29″,10 or lighter
Sr. Minors (9-12)……….28″ to 31″,10 or lighter
Majors (10-12)………….29″ to 32″,9 or lighter
MATERIALS
Wood is out has been for years. Wood baseball bats are heavier, less durable, and have less “pop” than aluminum bats. Leave wood to the pros. Most modern bats are made of aircraft-grade aluminum supplied by Alcoa or Kaiser. Variations in the alloy formula have resulted in stronger alloys, allowing the manufacturers to design bats with thinner shell walls, which in turn corresponds to lighter weight. All of these advanced alloys are known by trade names (usually a number), as well as brand names (sometimes the same grade will be marketed under a different brand name by different bat makers). The brand names are heavily hyped: you can be sure that if a bat is made of an advanced alloy, that fact will be trumpeted somewhere on the bat, usually in large bold letters. By the same token, you should beware of bats11 or lighter that do not state the type of alloy used. They will probably be made of an alloy that is too weak to support the thinner wall required for the light weight.
Standard aircraft aluminum is designated in the trade as “7046″. Most budget bats are made of this grade. “7050″ grade alloy includes a small amount of copper, and is about 33% stronger than 7046. About 12 years ago, Alcoa branded its 7050 grade “CU31″ and began marketing it in Slo-Pitch bats as the first high performance alloy. The “CU” designation refers to the addition of copper to the alloy. Alcoa’s “C405″ is the next higher grade, supposedly about 10% stronger than CU31. C405 as introduced 8 or 9 years ago, quickly followed by C405 Plus and C405 Ultra, which are the same alloy manufactured under difference processes. The strength difference between C405 and C405 Ultra is only about 5%. C405 Ultra is, therefore, about 38% stronger than standard aircraft aluminum. “7075″ is a new alloy by Kaiser that is claimed to be equal to or better than C405 Ultra. Kaiser’s Sc500 Scandium, and Alcoa’s C500 and C555 represent the next level up. C500 and Sc500 Scandium are about 3-5% stronger than C405 Ultra, respectively. C555 is claimed to be about 7% stronger than C405 Ultra, or about 40% stronger than standard aircraft grade aluminum.
The current king of the hill is SC777, made by Kaiser. While the other exotic alloys only offer incremental strength gains over CU31, SC777, if the claims are true, represents a truly big leap: about 50% stronger than C405. This means that SC777 is nearly twice as strong as standard aircraft aluminum.
WHY ALLOY GRADES MATTER (AND WHY THEY MAY NOT)
There’s a lot of hype out there about the various alloys. Here’s why alloy grade really matters. Manufacturers use advanced alloys in order to be able to make the walls of the barrel of the bat thin while still allowing the bat to be strong enough to resist denting. Thin walls equal light weight. Thin walls are also claimed to contribute to a “trampoline” effect, or rebound, when the bat strikes the ball. The rebound effect enhances power, and therefore, distance, given the same swing speed. Think of Throwing a baseball against a wall made of superball material, then against a wall made of concrete.
Other than allowing for thinner walls, however, there is little power to be gained from the exotic alloys themselves. The various alloys have virtually the same specific gravity, so the walls of a11 CU31 bat are likely to be the same thickness as those of a11 SC777 bat. There may be some difference in the trampoline effect, but it is negligible.
A good rule of thumb: stick to baseball bats made of CU31 or 7050 alloy or better for10 bats, at least C405 for11 bats, and C500 or better for12 bats. If your child is 11 or 12 and uncommonly large and strong, consider Sc777. If the bat is9 or heavier (I do not recommend bats heavier than9 in Little League), alloy grade is not that important.
OTHER DESIGN FEATURES
In addition to advanced alloys, manufacturers also tout special features or manufacturing processes that supposedly increase the durability of their high-performance bats. Easton C-Core and Z-Core bats have carbon fiber bonded to the inside of the barrel walls for increased strength and durability. Easton C-Core and Z-Core bats do have a reputation for durability; whether their durability derives from the carbon fiber is anyone’s guess. Worth puts out several bats that hype a “cryogenic” manufacturing process. Testing by B&N Softball, an independent tester of slo-Pitch bats, has shown that “cryogenic” bats offer no strength advantage over non-cryogenic bats of the same alloy.
(Admittedly, this testing is now 2 years old; perhaps Worth’s newest “cryogenic” bats do offer some advantage. Personally I doubt it.) Worth also makes bats that employ variable wall thickness. This supposedly allows stronger, thicker areas to be adjacent to thinner areas, somehow making it less likely that the bats will dent. Louisville Slugger”Air” bats and some Nike bats are filled with pressurized nitrogen to keep the bat from denting. Seems to me that this would affect, and maybe even compromise, the trampoline effect, but I don’t know of any testing on the subject.
SHOPPING FOR A BAT
You can expect to pay anywhere from $40 to $200 for a Little League bat (yes! $200 for a kid’s bat!), so it pays to shop around, including on the Internet. As baseball bats become more and more of a status item, like skis, manufacturers come out with new designs, or at least new paint jobs, every year. Sometimes you can find last year’s model for a lot less than the current model, and sometimes last year’s model will actually be better.
Metal vs. Wood
Metal baseball bats significantly outperformed wooden bats according to a recent study by a group of Brown University bioengineers, confirming a belief widely held by players and coaches. The average speed of a ball off the fastest bat, a metal model, was 93.3 mph; the average off the slowest bat, a wooden model, was 86.1 mph. Only 2 percent of hits made with wooden bats exceeded 100 mph, while 37 percent of the hits with the fastest metal bat were more than 100 mph, according to Joseph J. Crisco, associate professor of Orthopaedics at the Brown Medical School. The findings were published in the October 2002 issue of Medicine and Science in Sports and Exercise.
Although there is a general consensus that metal bats outperform wooden bats, few scientific studies have documented performance differences. In addition, the study confirmed the notion of a “sweet spot” associated with maximum ball speeds – those within the top 20 percent of the fastest hits from each bat model. The sweet spot was located approximately the same distance from the tip of wooden bats as it was from the tip of metal bats. Researchers concluded the metal bats produced faster batted ball speeds in part due to faster swing speeds, and in part to greater elastic properties found in nearly all of the metal bat models. In general, the lighter bats were swung faster and were associated with faster batted ball speeds.
Nineteen baseball players at the level of minor league, collegiate, and high school participated in the study. They used two wooden and five aluminum models from four manufacturers. Researchers measured batted ball speed, bat swing speed, bat impact location, and the elastic performance properties of the bats. Each player faced 10 to 20 pitches from a pitching machine with each bat. Researchers surrounded home plate with scaffolding supporting four infrared-sensing cameras to track the three-dimensional trajectory of the bat before impact as well as the pitched and batted ball; the cameras sensed reflective tape affixed to the bats and the balls. More than 1,000 pitches were recorded, of which about half were able to be analyzed. The others resulted in foul balls, pop-ups, missed pitches, or incomplete data.
The findings contribute to an ongoing dialogue about whether metal baseball bats increase the chance of injury to a pitcher – something this study did not examine – and therefore should be regulated. Currently high school and college players use aluminum and other metal alloy bats, while wooden bats are used in major and minor league baseball. However that may change. A recent decision by the Massachusetts Interscholastic Athletic Association, which regulates high school play, requires wooden bats in the 2003 tournament. Metal bats were introduced in the 1970s as a cost-saving alternative to wooden bats that were prone to break. A decade later, a general consensus had developed among players and coaches that metal bats could outperform wooden ones. In the late-80s, the National Collegiate Athletic Association implemented guidelines for weight and length of bats.

Introduction

The base umpire touches the brim of his hat with one finger pointed up then gives the plate umpire a thumbs up signal. The plate umpire responds with a similar, unobtrusive thumb motion. You look at the field and realize it is an infield fly situation. The initial hat touch also relayed the fact that one is out, the thumb signaled the infield fly situation. This signal may not be the one your crew uses but it is an effective form of communication around the diamond.

Umpires have developed a unique set of signs and signals to convey the game situation, the count, even anticipated on field rotations to each other. Their discreet, and sometimes not so discreet, motions do not distract the fan, who rarely sees them take place. Instead they insure that every umpire on the field is focused on the task at hand, that the count is consistent and everyone knows what might occur on the next play.

PAUSE – READ – REACT. Remember in each of these calls timing is everything. Selling the call is a matter of the game situation and each umpire will respond differently. There is nothing wrong with putting a little extra on the gesture and voice, if fact it is an important part of the game. In time each umpire develops their own personal sense of rhythm and timing, style and flair.

On Instructional Technique : A quick word on a method for starting of the “safe” and “out” signal by initially starting from a hands-on-knees set. It is particularly important when teaching novice umpires. The real-world sequence becomes: “pause, bust to the angle, pause to access the throw, hands-on-knees-set, read, now “CALL IT”, return to set.” This forces that extra second so quickly glossed over by the new umpire. As an umpire progresses slow and proper timing is ingrained into the signal. Personally, whenever I find myself rushing I resort back hearing my instructor’s drilling us through this basic series of motions.

Different instructors and regional systems will dictate how you approach your calls. Regardless of the system you are taught or elect to use the umpire must practice to make all calls consistent, clear and appropriate. Consistency is the aim. Concentration the objective. Communication is the key.

Finally, a reminder: as the field umpire all calls start from a “set” position, usually hands-on-knees or standing with your hands at your side. Most important: Never be caught moving on a call. For the field umpire all calls should return to a set position, either standing or hands-on-knees.. This brings the body into balance, allowing you to pivot smoothly to follow the developing play or to stand and move smartly to your proper field position.

In no way is this a perfect or complete list. Every crew has added at least one sign or signal to its personal list. Any tool which increases communication around the diamond is welcomed.

Essential Signs for the Players and Fans

My first instructor made it clear: the plate umpire’s right hand signals play, strike, out, fair ball – “the ball’s alive”, and on the rarest of occasions “infield fly” and hopefully even rarer, an ejection. The left hand does everything else including awarding bases, controlling the pitcher and holding the indicator and the mask. Remembers that simple instruction and almost everyone, coach, player and fan, will be crystal clear about your intentions.

 

Play

Along with strike and ball, this is the one call the plate umpire will make most often during a game. Pointing at the pitcher (or the plate) with the right hand and calling “play.” The call is essential for the batter and catcher. The gesture is essential for the pitcher, defense and offense.. In every case in the rule book (Section 5.00) it is clear that the play signal is a verbal signal: “….the umpire shall call “Play”.

I must point out that “this signal/call is very important for your partner(s) too! They must know the exact moment the ball becomes alive. If they don’t, they will not be able to respond correctly in situations where the pitcher makes a pickoff attempt or drops the ball while standing on the rubber. These are just a few examples.” Perhaps more important than the ballplayer knowing is your partner(s) knowing the ball is alive. Even though umpires know it is important, it is not absolutely required however. Professional umpires may, or may not give the point and play indicator. As soon as the pitcher is “in contact” with the rubber, meaning they intend to start the pitch cycle, the ball is assumed to be alive.

Strike

Always signaled with the right hand, each umpire develops a personalized system for signalling the strike. Some do the traditional bang-the-door clenched fist, some indicate the strike out to the side with a pointed finger. Some umpires face forward, some turn. Some call strike then signal, others do both simultaneously. One essential element is not to turn away from the action particularly in a two man system. In a two or three man system, by not facing forward, an umpire might even miss a play at the plate while going through their actions. Umpire school teaches you to keep your eyes on the ball as you make this signal.

 

Should you say “Strike One,” signal “Strike” or both?

“Generally, on a swinging strike, as the plate umpire, I NEVER VERBALIZE my call but rather indicate to the players and fans with a raised right arm (in my case, with a clenched fist). The exception to the NOT VERBALIZING is on a third strike; the plate umpire again raises his right arm and says “Strike Three” firmly but does not “sell the call.” If the catcher has dropped or trapped the pitch, you still go through with a firm “Strike Three” keeping eye-contact with the batter/catcher.”  Umpire school teaches you to say Strike One, “Strike Two,” and “Strike Three!” with a growing emphasis on each one.

Ball

Never signaled. Alright, maybe a touch of body English but no hand gestures. The general preference is that the verbal signal “ball” loud enough that both dugouts can hear it. Calling “Ball One,” “Ball Two,” etc. allows you to maintain the rhythm of your calls. Never indicate why a pitch was a ball, for example: “High, Ball One

 

Ball Four

“Ball Four” is announced clearly. You should NEVER point to first base even with the left hand. Just say “BALL FOUR”. If the umpire points to first after the pitch and the defense thinks it’s strike 3 and starts to leave the field chaos abounds. Even if you use the left hand, the players may not take note of which hand it was and be confused. Professional umpires never point to first.

 

TIME!

Raising both hands into the air and calling in a loud voice “TIME!” All umpires on the field will immediately signal the time call. Sometimes the call must be made several times in order to shut things down. Once time is called every effort must be made by all umpires to stop the action taking place.

time

Umpires learn that there are many moments when time is out, and it has not been called. This is normal in the course of a game as the umpires change their field positions, players repair equipment, or hundreds of other reasons. It may be the a simple lifting of the hands communication between crew members, or the plate umpire holding the stop hand up. Not all “t”ime is big-”T”ime.

 

The Count

Balls are signaled using the left hand. Strikes are signaled using the right hand. Both hands extend to shoulder level at the same moment. A full count is always signaled as “three balls, two strikes” and never signaled using clenched fists. The count is relayed back to the pitcher after every pitch and a verbal report is made usually after the second or third pitch and from that point on. The count is always read aloud as “two balls, two strikes” and not “two and two” or “twenty-two” or other similar variation.

Safe

Both left and right arms are raised together, to shoulder level, in front of the umpire and then a sweeping motion is performed out, parallel to the ground, palms down. The verbal call of “safe” may be made. To complete the call you normally return to the set position. To sell a safe call you might consider doing it two or three times in rapid succession. It is not always necessary to even make the sign or call. If the play is obvious do nothing.

 

“Out!”

The clenched right fist and a short hammered motion seem to be favored by most umpires. Again, personal style is acceptable as long as it does not distract you from seeing any further plays taking place. Check that the fielder is really in possession of the ball. The signal can be made with only a gesture or can be sold with a loud call of “He’s Out!” or “She’s Out!” Signal every out.

Why “He’s Out!” ???? Players are running by, not focused on the umpire, on a noisy diamond. If the player hears one sound he is “safe” … if he hears two “he’s out!” If the players hear nothing, the call is usually so obvious that everyone knows the result.

Never say “Strike Three – You’re Out!”

Umpires are encouraged not to make this call a part of their repertoire. Why? In some leagues the third strike does not have to be caught while in others it must be caught. Often the plate umpire is in the worst situation to call the trapped ball, for example: a breaking ball in the dirt for the swinging third strike. An umpire should only call “Strike Three.” If you have a situation where you know the batter now erroneously becomes a runner you can follow this by the call “The Batter Is Out!”

 

Uncaught Third Strike

Where this call is made the base umpire is often in a better position to relay the possession or trapping of the ball to the plate umpire. Signalling, not calling, a small discreet “out” means the ball was caught. Pointing to the ground with your right hand can mean the ball was trapped or not caught.

Some crews are more insistent, and the base umpire will point to the ground announcing “On the ground, on the ground” several times. This is crew dependent and should be discussed before the game.

On the tag!

Point at the runner with the left hand, signal the out with the right hand. Complete the sign by saying “On the tag, he’s out!” if you want to sell it a touch. (Remember you are the umpire, not the color commentator.)

 

Missed the tag!

A “selling it” call that occurs when a runner slides under the tag or the tag is high. You can save some grief by indicating a loud “Safe, he missed the tag!” and following it with a tapping motion where the tag was. Everyone will know you saw the tag and most will assume the runner had the bag before it.

 

Fair Ball

The right hand points into the field in fair territory. There is no call “Fair” anything ever made.

 

Foul Ball

The same signal as “Time” but the call becomes “Foul.” Umpires often add a point into foul territory with one hand after giving the time signal. Once verbalzed, this call sticks. Only in the rarest of moments can it be reversed.

The base umpire needs to pay specific attention to a ball hitting the batter in the batter’s box. If the batter has not moved the base umpire will immediately call “Foul.” If the batter is in motion the base umpire must delay to see if the plate umpire is going to make a call. Only if the plate umpire is silent, and the base umpire is certain the batter contacted the ball outside of the batter’s box would the base umpire signal “Time, that’s interference, the batter is out!” outherwise the call is “Foul!”

No Pitch

The same signal as “Time” but the call becomes “No Pitch.” If you are the plate umpire, step away from the plate. You will use this call most often in a softball game. It is used to indicate a leading off violation in some leagues. The call is a clear “No Pitch” and the “Runner is Out!” with a point and Out signal..

 

The Run Counts

Here there are two schools of thought. Often you will see an umpires point at the plate each time a run crosses the plate legally. Scorers often key on this gesture (as well as catchers!) This is important on the “time-play” or a “third-out” situation. It can also be important on a force play.

Bob Bainter, a professional umpire noted, “As far as the point on the run scoring, I think it is a matter of personal preference. Umpire Development wants no signal from us whether it is obvious or not. It is not our job to let anyone know, because what if the defense wants to appeal and throws the ball away, allowing another runner to advance or even score? That is a situation could put the offensive team in a tizzy. It has happened before.”

The Run Does Not Count!

Signal and announce when the runner does not score so that the scorer and coaches maintain accurate records. The signal, done by the plate umpire, begins by forming an ‘X’ with the arms in front of the body then sweeping the arms out to the “time” position. The gesture is repeated and the call “The runner does not score!” is made.

 

Advanced Signs for the Players and Fans

Called Strike

First point at the batter with the hand closest to the batter then signal the strike with your right. It is good practice to verbalize something like “He went – strike.”

 

The “Check-Swing” or Appealed Strike

The plate umpire does not have to be asked for help, he can simply request it himself. Experienced catchers will immediately ask you to get help from the base umpire after a check swing which you called a ball. In professional baseball the catcher and the manager can request the appeal on the swing.

Check with your league to see where the request can come from. In some leagues the request to appeal can come from anywhere on the field. A request should never be refused. The argument on the refusal will take longer then the appeal.

Step away from the plate, optionally removing your mask. With your left arm gesture clearly to the base umpire and ask “Did he swing?” or “Did he go?” If the answer is yes the base umpire signals – strike while saying “Yes, he went!” If the answer is no – a safe sign with “No, he did not go!”

The plate umpire will now announce the results by giving the count .. “Then that’s a strike, the count is …” or if denied, “The count is ….”

The Foul Tip

A two part signal. Extend you left arm up, in front of your body, palm down, to at least shoulder level. Brush the fingers of the right hand over the back of the left hand two or three times. The signal is completed by signaling the strike with the right hand. Because the ball is alive and runners can advance never say “Foul Tip.” Announcing “foul” anything could stop the action.

 

Infield Fly Called

All umpires point into the air with their right hand. On some crews every umpire on the field echoes the infield fly call, on others only the gesture is echoed. This should be dealt with in the pregame conference.

The plate umpire will usually announce the verbal portions of the signal, echoed by the other umpires.

Home Run or Ground Rule Double

First, the ball is dead. Make sure any unnecessary action is killed, particularly if the ball has rebounded back into the field. The signal for a home run is circling the right arm and index finger overhead. The ground rule double is awarded by signaling “two bases” with two fingers held up usually on the left hand.

 

Awarding Bases

Using the left hand point clearly at the runner and state “You, second base” or “You, third base”, “You, score!” whatever the case may be. The runner is protected all the way to the base but not one inch beyond it. Always move the runner closest to home first.

 

That’s a Balk!

Balks must be called with reference to the action. Remember, if the pitcher completes the delivery of the ball, or throws to a base, you are in a delayed balk situation. The sequence of arriving at that signal is: point at the pitcher, arm at shoulder height, and say “That’s a balk” …. now if the pitcher hesitates in his delivery call “Time … that’s a balk” and award the bases “You, second base.” etc. Pointing at the pitcher will allow sufficient time to determine a delayed balk call situation.

 

The Interference Call

An immediate decision is needed: “dead ball” or “delayed dead ball.” Point at the offensive player and make the call “That’s Interference” followed by your decision on whether or not the ball is dead, announced with a loud gestured “Time” or (…nothing…) meaning a delayed dead ball. If the ball remains alive avoid any signal that looks or sounds like “Time” until the appropriate moment. If the ball is dead call “Time” immediately and shut down any remaining play on the field.

 

The Obstruction Call

This call is like interference except the ball may remain alive. In all cases the call “That’s Obstruction.” is made while pointing at the defensive player making the obstruction. If a play is being made on the obstructed runner the ball is dead so immediately signal “Time.” This is followed by an awarding of a base or bases either after play has stopped or even while play remains ongoing. Unless a play was being made on the obstructed runner the ball remains alive.

Any gesture which resembles “Time” being called can cause problems on a diamond. This is one reason why some umpiring organizations teach to initially extend the left hand horizontally with a clenched fist. The professional baseball umpires point at the fielder with one hand only.

Catch or No Catch

When signaled the “catch” resembles the “out” signal. No verbal indication needs to be given. The “no-catch” signal resembles the “safe” signal except the call of “No Catch” is clearly given. Sometimes it will be necessary to repeat this sign several times. An addition to the “No Catch” is the juggling routine which indicates the fielder did not have possession. Juggle when the fielder is on the base for the force out but not in full possession of the ball.

Some crews give the safe signal and then point to the ground several times saying “on the ground, on the ground” when the ball is dropped. The terms “Catch” and “No Catch” could be mixed up over the crowd noise.

The verbal call needs only to be given on a trouble ball, for example: a ball caught diving or below the fielder’s knees. Routine fly’s can be signaled or not signaled depending on crew and local practice. If a ball is on the foul lines first signal whether the ball is fair or foul, then the catch or no-catch status if desired.

Signs for the Umpire Crew

The last thing a crew needs are a whole collection of “secret” or “private” signs. Keep any signs simple. Much beyond these few universal signs and the umpire’s sign list is growing too long.

 

How many are out?

There are two signs for making this request: 1) a cutting motion made across the throat or 2) tapping the right pant leg with a closed right fist. Responses 1) The number of outs are relayed by hold the appropriate number of fingers, pointing down, pressed against the right leg or 2) touching the brim of the hat with the appropriate number of fingers (or a clenched fist if no one is out.) A plate umpire often signals the number of outs by touching the side of the mask with a closed fist (0 out), one finger (1 out) or two fingers (2 out) extended.

 

What’s the count?

A quick tapping on the top of head or on the brim of the hat indicates confirmation of the count being requested. An alternative sign is placing the palms of both hands horizontally on the umpire’s chest. Response is made by holding the number of balls in the left hand and the number of strikes in the right hand. These are held pressed against the shirt just above the belt. The responding umpire also calls the count aloud.

 

Possible Infield Fly Situation

Some crews signal each other by first relaying the number of outs from the brim of their hats then signalling the infield fly. Another infield fly signal is done simply with the thumb pointing and moving upwards. A standard signal is to tap your left shoulder with your right palm indicating that the infield fly could be called. What is important is that play does not resume until all umpires are aware of the pending situation.

 

Watch out for a time play

Rejolly@aol.com wrote this note: “I just finished 5 weeks at the Jim Evans Academy of Professional Umpiring and they gave this time play instruction: Indicate to partner with right arm extended toward him with two finger indicating two outs and then a sharp point to the plate. This indicates that there is a possible time play and I am staying at home plate for a possible time play. This is echoed back by the other umpire.

Another sign flashed around many diamonds is a warning to be alert for a potential “two-out” time play situation. The plate umpire simply taps the back of his wrist where he would normally wear a watch.

I need help!

As soon as a manager leaves the dugout good umpires will move towards the umpire being addressed. If the discussion goes beyond a few pleasant words they will move in very close. If that umpire places two hand on his waist, particularly if he pumps them another umpire will step in between the umpire and manager. This request for intervention allows the umpire to immediately walk away from the area. As the intervening umpire there is only one objective, calmly say to the coach “OK coach, let’s get back to playing baseball, the discussion is over, lets get back to the game.” Under no circumstances will the intervening umpire discuss the play or become involved in any rules discussion.

Here is a simple pitch count score card to print and bring to the games.

Pitch Count Score Card

 
FIELDING DRILLS
Drills
In devising defensive drills try to keep the kids constantly involved and provide multiple repetitions so that they can practice and master good habits. Utilize assistant coaches or parent volunteers to keep things moving. Do not have kids standing around for stretches of time. Keep those fielders busy.    I would not get too complicated in putting together fielding drills for young kids. Innovation and creativity are great, but repetition is the key here at this level…Refer back to the Throwing & Catching Drills in putting together a majority of your practices.
 
Ground Balls
Set up your fielders in rows.   Have 2, 3 or 4 stations to keep the lines short. Hit or roll the 1st player on a line 5 ground balls and have them throw the ball back to you. When he is done he rotates to the back of the line and the next kid jumps up.  Check to see that your fielders are staying low. Have them work on staying” under the ball.”   Knees should be flexed, rear ends down, hands out in front of their body in receiving the grounder. The feet should be slightly wider than the player’s shoulders. Watch that the player doesn’t turn his head away when fielding the grounder. With young and unskilled players, you may find that using tennis balls and then gradually working up to regulation balls is the way to go.
This drill is good in that it can be done indoors and out, on a field, parking lot or driveway. It does not require much space but can provide dozens of repetitions in a short amount of time. You can isolate stance and fielding flaws and build confidence in fielders who might be frightened of the ball. Start easy and work your way up to harder-hit balls. There is no surer way to lose a young player than to hit grounders too hard, too soon and they get hit with it.
 
Wall Drill: Line up your players 15-20 feet apart facing a wall 20 feet away. Using tennis or rubberized balls, have the players throw their ball against the wall. Presto! Instant grounder. Kids can get literally dozens of balls in this fashion. This drill is good for eye/hand coordination and you can check to see how the kids set up on grounders. Make contests for the most consecutive ground balls caught and encourage the kids to do this drill on their own.
 
Infield practice: Set the players up on the infield at 1st, 2nd, short and 3rd. Have a catcher behind the plate and a pitcher at the mound. The coach hits ground balls from home plate to all of the positions. Have the kids field and practice making regulation throws. Keep rotating kids in and out of positions until they have all played every position. This drill will show you what kids are capable of the longer Throws and will get them used to the routines of infield play. Keep backups at all the positions as you can expect misplays and overthrows. (It’s normal in lower level ball.)
Keep all the kids involved by rotating often. Get the kids versed in playing several positions.   Don’t lock them into only one spot on the field. You can expand this drill by including outfielders and having them throw to bases and utilizing them as cut offs. You may also choose to include baserunners. This introduces the element of situational play to your players. Bunts, force plays, double plays and run downs can all be simulated for the players to recognize and react to. Using runners makes the drill more competitive and forces the fielders to respond to game-like pressure. It also provides valuable base-running practice and is fun. With younger players it is expected that runners will be safe most of the time as the throwing and fielding skills of the defensive players are not yet fully developed. Watch for improvement however, and as defensive players gradually get better, the frequency of outs will increase. Don’t let the players get discouraged. I have used a drill like this for 30 to 45 minutes and the kids have great fun with all aspects of it.
 
Controlled scrimmage: Put kids out into positions on the field. Have the coach pitch as to guarantee strikes. Let batters hit and have the fielders respond to the plays accordingly. This is a great time to work on anticipation. Have the kids tell you what they will do with the ball if it’s hit to them. It is important for the fielders to see pitched balls hit off of the bat.  It is different than balls that are simply fungoed by the coach. This drill also provides batting and base-running practice for your players. Again, gauge your players abilities. If they can’t play catch safely and effectively, can’t do the line drill, scrimmaging is u nrealistic. Keep the players rotating around into different positions. Have runners wear helmets and have fun.
 
 
Fly Balls
Exercise great caution when teaching young kids how to catch fly balls. Start by using tennis balls or Softee Balls and toss, don’t hit, them at your players. (I witnessed a well-meaning coach hit hard balls at 8-year-old kids and it resulted in a broken nose for one of the youngsters.) Tread carefully. Catching fly balls is an art that takes a long time to acquire. Realize that many kids have a fear of the baseball, particularly those up over their head. Teach them to keep their glove fingers up and their arms extended in front of them.
 
Give each kid a ball. Have them (one at a time) run up to you and have them flip you the ball. They then run approximately 50 feet and you lob a ball up for them to catch.   As ability increases, increase the length and height of the throws.      (TIP: Encourage the kids to run on the balls of their feet. Kids who run on their heels have a tendency to bounce and it makes it difficult fo them to track the ball.)
 
Relay
Divide your kids into teams of 4-5 kids to a team. Each team should create a straight line with the players positioned approximately 50 feet apart. The object of each team is to throw to the next player in their line until the ball goes all the way down to the end of the line and back. The thrower should be using the next fielders chest as his target. Accuracy is paramount. High, wide or bounced throws make for poor relays. Also look that players are turning to their glove side when throwing the ball to the next player on the line. (Right hand throwers spin to their left, Left hand throwers spin to their right.) Have fun by having the teams race each other. Players will learn very early that dropped or wild throws will cause them to lose the race.

A child’s first baseball glove is something he’ll remember forever. Many an article have been written regarding finding your young child that perfect glove. The bottom line is that you can get a pretty good glove for your nine year old down at the local sporting goods store. Once your son reaches junior high and high school it is about time to move gradually up the ladder towards the “top of the line” ball gloves. I am not going to cover first base and catchers mitts because most of them are fairly similar. Now just where do you begin? Let’s start with position specific gloves and go from there.

Leather

There are dozens of different types of leather out there today, some very good quality, some rather poor. It seems that the latest craze in glove leather is the new oil treated gloves that are injected with oil while still in the factory. This results in a quicker break in period but these gloves will not last as long as the “stiff” older models. In my well informed opinion I think Rawlings has made a huge mistake by having all of their “Heart of the Hide” models come as “oil tanned.” Wilson has also added the “Quick Stop” leather to their line, which is basically darker softer leather that won’t last as long as they claim it will. Nokona makes the only mass produced Kangaroo gloves and although you may initially enjoy the softness and feel of these gloves you will eventually realize that you are basically playing with a tortilla on your hand. Nokona does make very nice Walnut leather that is very time consuming to break in but will last for years after that. Wilson also has an interesting concept with their “Super Skin” gloves which have a dimpled plastic back that they claim lasts twice as long as leather. I find this a little hard to believe but I can’t personally comment because I haven’t personally owned one. My final answer is that you should go for the stiffest glove you can find, it will take much longer to break in but in the end it will last longer and become a part of you.

Position and Size

By the time a child hits high school he has a pretty good idea of where he is going to play. Unlike in little league when it was common to start at short, pitch 3 or so innings and strap on the gear later in the game.

Let’s start with infielders. Middle infielders will generally want a smaller rounder glove, with second baseman generally having the smallest gloves on the team ranging from 10 ½ inches to about 11 ¼. As we move over to short we will see most gloves between 11 ¼ and 11 ¾ with some exceptions like AROD who uses a 12 ¼ inch Rawlings single post web with a “fastback” back. Continuing on to third base, the most popular size is probably 11 ¾ (you’ll see some 12’s and a lot of 11 ½ ’s among the more sure handed guys over there).

Outfielders’ gloves are a lot simpler to judge because just about every pro stock adult glove will be about 13 inches.

Pitchers will vary the most out of any position. Many pitchers use gloves as small as 11 inches (Kerry Ligtenberg) and some will use gloves as large as 12 ¼ inches. I would say the average is 11 ¾. If your son is on the Nomadic side and plays all over the field I would recommend something in the range of 11 ¾ or 12 inches.

The thing we have to keep in mind regarding glove sizes, especially infielders’ gloves, is that every company varies slightly in size. For example Wilson A2000’s have always run very small and Mizuno’s tend to be larger than their listed sizes.

Webbing

Infielders – There are a variety of web styles in the infield but you will also notice a few trends. Most second baseman will use a single patch webbing which is a square piece of leather with two X’s holding it to the body, or a simple basket web. Over on to short you will find a lot of I webs and some H webs. Basically an I web looks like an I with two X’s holding it in place at the bottom and an H web has two strips of leather going vertically and one or two going across. Over at third you will see more I and H webs as well as some “Trapeze” models. A trapeze is a thick piece of leather that runs in between the thumb and the index finger, almost creating a sixth finger.

Outfielders – By far the most popular style for outfielders is the trapeze. I’m not an expert on Outfielders’ gloves but from what I’ve observed the outfielders tend to like these as well as some large H webs.

Pitchers – The main thing to remember about pitchers’ gloves is that the whole idea is to be secretive and tricky. So you won’t see many I webs or anything else like that. Currently the standard basket web is still the most popular but the two piece webs are becoming more popular among major leaguers and many of the retailers are beginning to pick up these models. You may also see some modified trapeze gloves (Pedro) and some one piece webs (Kerry Ligtenberg).

Back of the Glove

Infielders – Most infielders prefer standard open back webs, with a few exceptions as always. According to the few pro ballplayers I have talked to about gloves the consensus is that open backs keep your hand cooler as well as being more comfortable.

By far the least popular back as far as infielders go is the “fastback”, “holster” or whatever you want to call it. The only two guys who I can think of who use this style are Ripken and AROD who both use an awful 12 ¼ inch Rawlings outfielders glove. You will also see a lot of hole type backs which are basically open backed except the opening is smaller and more circular. If you can picture the Mizuno that Chipper Jones uses you have a good idea of what I am getting at.

Outfielders – In the outfield you will see a lot of open backs as well as many fastbacks.

Pitchers – Most if not all pitchers will use open backs. Pitchers have some special little gimmicks on their gloves including one that was developed by Wilson in the early 90’s to help a struggling pitcher. Greg Maddux was actually tipping his pitches to the hitter with his index finger that was poking out of his glove. Wilson simply wrapped a piece of leather around his finger to act as a cover and prevent further problems. This has turned into the Pro Sleeve, which is now standard on a lot of A2000’s and Conforms.

Now that we have learned about all the components involved in making a good glove, just how do we turn that into the ideal glove as a whole? Well here are my ideas of what that ideal glove for each position would be as based on my recommendations.

Second Base – 11 inch, one piece web, X lacing and an open back.

Shortstop – 11 ½ inch, I web, X lacing and open back.

Third Base – 11 ¾ inch, Basket Web with an open back.

Outfield – 13 inch, Trapeze web and Fastback web.

Pitcher – 11 ¾ two piece web with open back and pro sleeve.

Color

Color is probably the least important aspect as far as longevity goes but it does matter to most people. Gloves tend to come in either Tan or Black or a combination of the two. I myself prefer a solid colored glove but my newest purchase includes a tan body and a black web and I am very happy with the appearance. Basically remember that color won’t change anything about how the glove plays but you have to live with the glove for a couple of years so make sure you like how it looks.

Here is a simple score card that can be printed and used for all Youth League games to track Pitch count and all aspects of the game.

Box Score Card

TEE DRILL
  1. The Hip turn: Place a ball on the tee at hip level. Have a batter hold a bat behind her hips and assume her normal batting stance. Have her pivot at the hips and knock the ball off the tee. This teaches proper explosion and hip rotation.
  2. Locate the tee at the proper impact point for inside pitches and or outside pitches. Place the balls on the tee and have the batter hit from her normal stance. This teaches the proper technique for hitting these pitches. This drill should be supervised by the batting coach at all times to ensure proper mechanics and techniques.
SOFT-TOSS
We rarely use a full size “BALL” and “BAT” when doing this “drill”. The reason for this is to intensify the drill and the skill being taught. Position your self to the batting side (right side for right handed batters) and slightly ahead of the batter. Toss the “BALL” at the hip of the batter. You want them to make contact with the ball in front of their body. This is the “CONTACT” Point. The toss is especially important!! You do not want a slow-arching type of throw; but a crisp-snappy toss. The toss should be crisp, but not too fast and out in front of the batter. It takes some practice to get it correct. We use this drill to teach the proper mechanics of the swing. Make sure the “batters” are 1. pivoting correctly and early enough. 2. rotating their hips with an explosion toward the ball 3. unlocking their shoulders, elbows and wrists in sequence while Throwing their hands straight to the ball (watch for hands dropping and correct this). 4. Watching the ball all the way to the “BAT” and continuing to watch the “CONTACT POINT” after the “BALL” has been hit.
The proper stance is very important. It should be a balanced stance with about 60% of the weight on the back foot, eyes level, bat in launch position (NOT WRAPPED BEHIND THE HEAD), knees slightly FLEXED, and door-knocking knuckles lined up. The stride should be a short, smooth lift and move type of stride. Upon impact with the ball and also at follow-through, the batter’s body should be in a slightly curved position toward the ball (inward “c”), this insures that all the weight and power went in to impacting the ball.
We have used many things for “balls” and “bats”. To increase concentration on the ball, try using tennis balls, practice whiffle golf balls, coffee can lids (plastic ones like Frisbees), but my favorite (and the players favorite) is to use black-eyes peas. We start hitting them with a full size bat, but quickly move to using a “thunder-stick” or a home-made “bat” I made which is about the same size as a “thunder-stick” but with less weight inserted in the end. I feel we are trying to teach muscle memory and too much weight teaches a slower swing, but others think differently. During warm-ups before games, I always hit the peas and them some LOUD, regular sized softballs. These are the hard ones and they sure turn some heads! The girls love the looks on the opposing teams faces when they hit these loud balls. We hit into a portable backstop so there is no time lost chasing balls.
One of my favorite drills is the “High-Low” drill with the practice golf balls. I hold 2 balls in my hand and toss them into the “contact zone” and call out either “high” or “low”. The player must hit the corresponding ball. I tried it once with the black-eyed peas and was quite successful.
If the batters start to “cheat” on soft-toss drills, I hold 1 ball in either hand and rotate them (like juggling) and toss one up. This way they do not know when the ball is coming. They all hate this, but it works!!
FOLLOW THROUGH
Take a G.I. bag fill it with old pillows ( don’t make it to heavy) tie the top closed with some bungi rope, and hang this from a limb or a rafter so the center of the bag is about even with the batters hips. I usually put a portable home plate just under the bag 1/2 way so the batter doesn’t creep up on the bag, and to teach proper contact point with the ball. I then pitch a windmill to the bag from only 20 feet ( I’m not that fast a pitcher) , but from only 20 feet I seem very fast.
I use a regular softball for this drill. It teaches follow through, pitch timing, and bat speed.
This drill works great at any age level, and if you use it consistently you will see a few home runs from even a beginner team. Use this drill along with soft toss or your batters will develop a proper aim with their swing.
TENNIS BALL DRILLS
We use tennis balls a lot in practice. I toss them from the normal position a lot to make certain the mechanics are correct. I also toss them from behind the batter. This makes the batter watch the ball all the way to impact and teaches a quick, compact swing. I also like to bounce the ball into the “contact zone”. Another drill I like to use is the walking-tossing drill. Using tennis balls, I walk slightly in front and to the side of the batter and bounce a tennis ball into her “contact zone”. The batter must load up and swing while walking. I bounce 3 or 4 balls as we walk. This is tough, but the players love it once they can hit the balls. For beginners, I recommend bouncing the tennis balls and hitting them with a regular bat, but then move to a smaller bat.
DROP DRILLS
Use some type of back-stop and a bucket or old milk crate. Have one player hold the ball at shoulder height and drop it straight down into the strike-zone. The batter must see the ball and react fast enough to hit it. This drill teaches the batter to take their hands straight to the ball. Have the player dropping the balls, drop them at different times so the batter does not “cheat”. The batter can watch the release of the ball, but cannot move prior to the ball being dropped. This drill has increased our team bat speed a lot. We use this drill in warm-ups before every game and as a team, we are making contact with the ball in .900 range. Something must be working!!!
BARRIER DRILLS
Front Barrier Drill: Have the batter stand one bat length from a barrier (I prefer a net to prevent damage to the bat, but you can use a fence). Have her take her normal swing. If she hits the barrier, she is unlocking her elbows before her shoulders and getting wide on the swing.
Rear Barrier Drill: Place a barrier directly behind the batter and have her take her normal swing. If the bat hits the barrier, she is dropping her hands. You can use this barrier even when you are using a pitching machine or live pitching for instant feedback to the batter that she is dropping her hands.
BASKETBALL DRILL
This is a great drill for teaching follow-through. Get a couple of old basketballs and take most of the air out of them. Place them on one of those orange cones you see at construction sites (I got one donated by a site once although I don’t think they knew they donated it). Have the batter take her normal swing and follow-through right through the basketball. HAVE THEM WEAR HELMETS!!! Use regular sized bats for this drill.
Here’s a drill you may find useful. Construct a batting beam with pieces of 2″ x 4″’s. The main piece should be about 4′ long. Two cross pieces about 18″ should be nailed about 16″ from each end of main piece. Have player stand on this during soft toss. The player should remain on beam throughout swing. The beam encourages the batter to be on the balls of the her feet and to maintain a balanced swing. It also helps the batter to take their timing step straight to the pitcher. The players don’t like this beam at first, but it does help.
It’s an old drill…but one I find very effective…You need a softball…..some thick garden gloves and some rope about 12 feet long.. Drill a hole through the softball. and insert the rope…tie a knot on both sides of the hole…. Put the batter in her regular stance, and…stand opposite her….start swinging the ball on the rope, through her strike zone. Hang on tight….cause if they get a hold of it …the balls takes off (thus the gloves) I find this is great because you can vary the speed of the ball….and the location… It’s especially useful when you’ve got a variety of kids working on tees, in a cage etc…and there’s some one on one time…
ON-DECK HITTER
There are several products on the market that do essentially the same thing, they are called “On Deck” hitters. They are basically a ball on a rope, that is tied to a swivel and then secured to a pole or rod and that is mounted to the fence either by bolts (U-bolts to mount to the fence pole) or springs (to mount to the fence directly). The on deck (we use “in the hole hitter”) batter goes behind the fence and takes swings at the “on deck” device before she goes to bat. It is a great warm-up tool and we take ours to every game we play. I like to have a coach out there with the batter to make sure she is using proper fundamentals and intensity!!
HITTING
If your players batting mechanics are good, and they’re still not hitting the ball, they are probably not seeing it correctly, or perhaps not following it right to the bat. Here are a few drills that are designed to really keep your eye on the ball
BALLS AND STRIKES DRILL: Have the pitchers throw pitches and the batters just watch the ball into the glove and call balls and strikes. You’ll be amazed at what batters think are balls. The best thing for good eyes are just seeing live pitching…lots of it, even if it is just being a batter while your pitcher is doing a workout. You can learn to read different pitches, and the pitcher gets better practice when there is a batter in the box.
HITTING DIFFERENT OBJECT: Try golf whiffle balls, small coffee can lids (thrown like Frisbees), pinto beans, etc, anything that has them concentrating on a smaller than usual target and hitting something that moves, rather than moving in a straight line. This will improve their concentration and teach them to follow the ball all the way in.
MISS/MISS/HIT: Use a series of three pitches to teach them to watch the ball. The first pitch, the batter swings over the ball. The second pitch, swings under the ball. The third pitch the batter hits the ball. Repeat this drill until they can do it every time. After that, you can really fine tune this: Pitch 1- just nick the top of the ball. Pitch 2-Just nick the bottom of the ball. Pitch 3- Hit it right in the middle of the ball.
TWO-BALL SOFT TOSS: Get two different color whiffle balls (say red & white) or mark half of the balls with a different color dot. Works better with whiffle baseballs or even golf whiffle balls. Its easier to toss smaller balls plus helps hitters in focus and coordination. Toss the two balls at the same time (from same hand) and ask the player to hit one of them, either red or white. This helps players to coordinate, focus and react ti=o hit the correct color ball.
PICK A NUMBER: Take 3 or 4 balls, write a number on each ball. The players job is to see the ball well enough to tell you which number is on the pitched ball.
WHEN TO FOCUS: Try teaching them HOW to watch the ball. Everyone tells the player to watch the ball but few ever tell them how. The player will focus hard on the release point just as the ball is released, then follow the ball into the strike zone. Don’t start early. If you look real hard at any point, it starts to fade in about two seconds. It takes under one second for the ball to travel from the pitcher’s hand to the batter, so if you look at the pitchers eyes during wind-up, and move to the release point just before release, it may keep you from looking to the release point too early.
The Power Bat Drill
The purpose of the Power Bat Drill for a baseball player is much the same as a boxer using a heavy bag to train with. Boxers learn how to develop power in their punch by trying to power through the heavy bag. Baseball players learn to develop power in their swing by hitting through a heavier object than a normal baseball. The result is the same for both athletes… increased power through the point of contact!
What you will need:
· A batting tee
· A plunger
· A flat soccer ball or basketball
· A hitting net (or wall)
· A bat
How the drill works:
Slide the plunger handle into the batting tee.
Place the flat soccer ball or basketball onto the plunger cup top.
Execute your normal swing repeatedly.
The goal is for the hitter to strike the much heavier ball without having the bat decelerate at the impact point. This takes proper technique and explosion at the point of impact to achieve. What you will see is that with the first few swings, the barrel of the bat will “stutter” through the impact zone, meaning that it will decelerate at the point of impact for a fraction of a second before resuming its speed to the finishing position. Concentrate on the proper mechanics, not with launching the ball. Proper mechanics will accelerate the bat head sufficiently to power through the heavier ball. The flight path of the ball should be level (around chest high) into the hitting net (or wall). Power is all about bat speed at impact, not the size of the player. This drill will increase the power at impact if it is used on a regular basis. Remember to always use a flat ball for this drill.
The Strike Zone Drill
The purpose of this drill is to teach the hitter “strike zone recognition”.
Teams get 3 outs per at bat.A coach pitches the ball from about 40 feet in front of the plate. The hitter sets up at the plate with a bat, strides at the proper time, follows the ball with his head into the catcher’s glove, and calls “ball” or “strike” as the ball hits the glove.
The Colored Ball Drill
The purpose of this drill is to improve reaction time and thinking at the plate.
Paint several baseballs with different bright colors, and place them in a bucket behind the mound. Have someone place one of the balls in the pitcher’s glove without letting the batter see the color. The pitcher then calls out a color before pitching the ball. The batter can only swing if the ball matches the color the pitcher called out (and if the pitch is in the strike zone).
The Pitch Behind Drill
The purpose of this drill is to prevent timid hitters from backing out at the plate.
The timid little league batter always seems to assume that backing out will automatically prevent him from being hit by the pitch. He usually starts his getaway before he has any notion of where the pitch is really headed. I have had some success against this tendency by throwing behind the timid batter’s back. After all, he will get plenty of these pitches at the little league level, and you don’t want him backing into them and getting hurt.
Start out using spalding or tennis balls. At first, throw a lot of pitches behind him, then gradually decrease the frequency of these pitches as he starts to break the habit. Soon he will realize that he had better not back up until he sees where the ball is really going.
This will make him safer and more confident at the plate. And while he’s watching the ball more closely, he’s going to realize that he doesn’t have to hide from the good pitches, but can stay put and hit them.
Wall Ball Hitting Drill
This drill is actually a hitting game that allows players to build skills, learn to perform under pressure, identify strikes, and develop a line drive swing.
Teams of 2 or 3 players compete against other teams. The first team to score 11 runs wins. The drill can be used indoors or outdoors. The games requires a wall, curtain, or sections of fence. The rules are outlined before competition begins. The wall or fence should have a “top line” that represents the top of the scoring zone. Any ball that hits the wall, curtain, or fence above that line is an “out”. To score, the batter must hit a line drive that hits the scoring zone without touching the ground. The batter that hits a ground ball keeps the inning alive. He does not score, but he also does not make an out. Each player gets only one swing per bat. He is either going to hit a score, hit a ground ball or make an out. Any ball that is caught by the defense before it touches the wall or ground is an out. All pop ups, foul balls, and missed swings are counted as outs. Bats are not allowed to touch the ground. Batters must stay alert and jump in to bat as soon as the other batter swings. Each team gets 3 outs per at bat. Defensive players are allowed to “knock down” balls to prevent scoring. Any ball that hits the “scoring zone” without touching the ground is a score. The defense must learn to react quickly and catch the ball or knock it down.
This drill is best done in a tournament format. Reward the winning team in some way. This is a great drill for indoor hitting. Players get to take a lot of swings. The competition becomes fierce. It will build a competitive fire in your timid players, and teach players to be aggressive. Make sure to use foam or wiffle baseballs.

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Overview

The use of the squeeze bunt gives coaches the ability to put pressure on the other team and allow the team to score a tying run or a go ahead run, and even a insurance run. This situation will definitely put more pressure on the hitter; however it can truly turn the tide of the game.

Safety Squeeze

Utilizing the safety squeeze, the base runner third base does not move for home base until he views a successful bunt laid down. This approach does take pressure off of the batter to execute a successful bunt; however it does put more pressure on the batter to make a good bunt that is not playable by the pitcher. In order to get into position to bunt using a jab or pivot step, you do not want to tip off your intentions before the pitcher’s arm starts to move forward where they are unable to change Throwing direction. Since the base runner  is waiting for a successful bunt, you should not be hesitant to take a pitch otherwise you need to bunt down the third or first base line. When performing a successful bunt be sure not to be in a hurry to leave the box and get to first base, you job is to lay down a good bunt and score the man on third.

 

Suicide Squeeze

For the hitter, the suicide squeeze is much like the safety squeeze in that you must wait until the pitcher cannot change the direction of the pitch before you pivot to bunt. It’s much more difficult in that the runner is not waiting to see if you have bunted the ball successfully before breaking from third. The assumption is you will bunt the ball no matter where it is pitched. The runner from third must wait until the pitchers arm is coming forward before making his break for home. Unlike the safety squeeze where the location of the bunt is of primary concern, in a suicide squeeze, you want to make sure you bunt the ball fairly. It’s very difficult for this play to be defensed if the ball is bunted.

 

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